Anyone who knows me a little knows that I am not a jungle girl – I scan our itineraries for any potential encounter with arachnids and jungle is definitely on the list of “no no no”. So it was a bit of a surprise when the tour guide texted me the night before to remind me to take repellent and water shoes – neither of which we had, of course. Well, not pulling out now so let’s do it.

The tour was to visit a waterfall in Chagres National Park (hike to it) and then visit the Embera tribe that lives there. First was the canoe trip with the locals to actually get us somewhere in the middle there. We get assigned a local tribeman who is standing in front of our canoe with a stick and basically maneuvers us out of shallow water while a 2nd tribeman is managing the engine in the back. We get out to walk to the waterfall – I am getting worried as it is muddy and me in Tevas, B in slippery Sanuks and Lucas in Crocs – we are the picture of not-ready.

The hike itself is not bad at all, little elevation and barely 2 miles. The slippery mud and moving river with rocks is not fun though. I had the benefit of having my tribesman in front of me who basically held my hand and told me where to step – while he was barefoot! Path turned to boulders quickly and we are not gazelles either – but we made it to the waterfall and back with no injuries, lots of mud, some pictures and soaked (we did swim in it and then it started to rain as it does in Panama everyday).

Next stop – the Embera village – so close to 12% of Panamanians actually identify as indigenous, and the Parara Puru (this tribe and village) were our hosts. We danced, we ate (fresh fish with plantains and amazing fruit), we got a preview of what they do for living (this made me feel better as I thought we were just exploring them but tourism is their main way of support and work), saw where they live and played with the kids. It was actually quite fun and didn’t feel so touristy and explorative – we were the only tourists there so definitely off the beaten path. Some stories or interesting facts:

• They have no electricity and one bathroom for the whole tribe, about 100 people live there, all related in some way – didn’t push on this but had lots of questions
• Fluent in Spanish and their own language, so not that behind
• Everything has to be imported on these boats – or taken from the earth – no animals are allowed – so no dairy at all, not much bread…. was a little perplexed on the diet – all pretty natural.
• No doctor anywhere, all natural or on the boat somewhere – they don’t like to go intown so keeping it local
• Lots of arts and various crafts making – bangles, earrings, beads, fabric – the weather makes the clothing pretty simple.
• River and some natural soap stuff make up for lots of cosmetics
• There is a school with a teacher that is sent by the government and stays there during the week
• Every material they use is from nature – we got a tattoo which was some paint from a bark, no plates or utensils, all leaves or your hands. Drinks from wooden or rock cups. All paints or colors come from some sort of tree, flower or ground.
• I can see why they are half naked, it is so hot and humid there – yet they are clearly fine without AC – meanwhile we were hecking and puffing and couldn’t wait to get to the car

The life is remarkably simple, no phone, no huge worries, simple activities during the day, kids running around and picking up mangoes from the trees. Swimming in the river, seeing some tourists to come by. While it sounded too simple and not very diverse for activities, it also sounded strangely calming and relaxing. Maybe a little camp with Embera tribe would be good for all of us.